Best CyclingTrip

Bay of Kotor, Montenegro

The Kotor Serpentine: the old royal road to Njeguši

Start point

Kotor

Distance

20 km

Elevation gain

950 m D+

Duration

Half a day

Difficulty

Hard

Best season

April-May and September-October (avoid the busy July-August period)

Road

Before a modern road existed, these switchbacks cut into the mountainside were how Kotor connected to inland Montenegro. Built between 1879 and 1884, the road climbs from sea level up to the village of Njeguši, on the slopes of Mount Lovćen, delivering one of the most spectacular viewpoints in the Balkans over the Bay of Kotor.

Twenty-five hairpins above the bay

Over roughly 20 km and close to 950 m of climbing, the road strings out its numbered hairpins along the cliffside, with stretches nearing 8-10% on the steepest sections. Each bend reveals a little more of the bay below, its steep-walled inlets and Kotor’s red roofs shrinking as the climb goes on.

Njeguši, village of King Nikola

The village of Njeguši, birthplace of the Petrović-Njegoš dynasty, makes a natural stop to catch your breath before heading back down or continuing on to Cetinje, the former royal capital. Known for its smoked ham and mountain cheese, it’s a welcome resupply point after the climb.

A road to share with care

Still open to regular traffic, it sees tour buses during the high season, especially around midday: an early start or a ride outside July-August avoids most of the traffic and the heat, since the road offers little shade over most of its length.

Good to know

Kotor, UNESCO-listed for its walled old town, has all the services you’d need before tackling the climb, while Cetinje, about 20 km beyond Njeguši, lets you extend the ride further into Montenegro’s interior.

Getting to Kotor

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Where to stay near Kotor

A selection of well-located places to stay so you can start the ride fresh.

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Frequently asked questions

Who built this road, and why does it switchback so much?+

Dalmatian engineer Josip Slade laid it out between 1879 and 1884, commissioned by King Nikola I shortly after Montenegro's independence gained international recognition in 1878, to link the new capital Cetinje to the coast at Kotor. Its 25 numbered hairpins let the road climb a steep slope without exceeding a gradient that horse-drawn carts of the time could manage.

Is it dangerous to ride by bike?+

It stays narrow, down to a single lane in places, with no guardrail on most of the hairpins, and shares the road with tour buses that can cause occasional jams forcing a vehicle to reverse. Riding early in the morning or outside the peak summer season cuts traffic exposure considerably.

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