The Périgord Noir, around Sarlat, has one of the highest densities of listed villages in France, mixing medieval bastide towns and hilltop settlements overlooking the Dordogne valley — an ideal playground for gravel, where every climb is rewarded with a view or a remarkable village.
A route between heritage and valley
Starting from Sarlat, a museum-town with remarkably preserved medieval and Renaissance architecture, the route climbs toward Domme, a hilltop bastide offering one of the finest panoramas over the Dordogne valley. The descent toward La Roque-Gageac, a village clinging to the cliffside by the river, marks a striking contrast with the heights of Domme.
The route continues along farm tracks and quiet small roads through the hills of the Périgord Noir, alternating fields, walnut groves and oak woods typical of the region, before returning to Sarlat via a different path for varied scenery.
How to approach the ride
The total elevation gain, around 850 m over 58 km, makes this a tougher ride than it looks on paper: the hills of the Périgord follow one after another with few long flat stretches. A 38-42mm tire suits most of the route, which is largely fast-rolling, with a few rockier sections in the more rural stretches.
Budget time for village stops: Domme and La Roque-Gageac are worth exploring on foot, as biking isn’t always welcome in the narrowest lanes.
When to go
Spring (April to June) and the shoulder season (September-October) offer the best conditions, with particularly flattering light on the Périgord’s golden stone. Summer can be hot and heavily touristed, especially in the best-known villages.
Good to know
Sarlat has a wide choice of accommodation for a town its size, thanks to its strong tourist trade, with several places used to cyclists.